Day Four - Okavango Delta, Botswana

Moyo, Sparks, *** and *** by the fire early in the morning

As we had become accustomed on this trip, the day began early. We awoke before sunrise and found all of the Polers and Moyo by the fire preparing tea and coffee for those who were having a hard time keeping their eyes open. We watched the sunrise over the delta and knew that if we walked at sunrise, we would have some company around us, unlike yesterday. So we all hopped in Mokoros and headed out to a different island for the morning walk.

Morning Mokoro Ride

The uncertainty of the Mokoros was not a welcome feeling in the stomach at 6:00. With each stroke it felt like the boat was bound to capsize. But after about 15 minutes we hit land and disembarked onto land. Sparks led us once again with Warrior taking up the rear. Almost instantly we had our first encounter, a harem of Zebras on a morning stroll for breakfast.

Harem of Zebras in the morning

Now I have seen a fair number of wild animals on safaris, and zebras in particular. But there is nothing like the feeling when you see wild animals and you are standing on the same ground as them with no boat, plane or truck to protect you from them. We also were not in a reserve, but in the wild delta. We had strict orders to stay in a line, not make much noise and stay together. The Zebras noticed us of course and began to slowly walk away, uncertain of whether or not we were a threat.

Sparks leading us through the delta on foot

            We continued along on the walk, happy that we’d found some animals. We again, like the day before, found remains from a lion’s kill. Today we found a Cape Buffalo skeleton that had been there for about a year, Sparks told us. The skeleton left behind was incredibly large, and must have been something to watch the moment the  lion preyed on the Buffalo. 

Buffalo remains from a lion kill

Just as we looked up from the Buffalo skeleton, we spotted a Giraffe male and female enjoying some leaves on a morning walk. The Giraffes were quite a ways a way but we could see them clearly chewing on leaves and walking side by side. The darker skin was the male and the lighter skin was the female, Sparks told us. You could tell by the number of camera clicks that Giraffes were a group favorite. 

A couple of Giraffe strolling through the delta

We started to venture back to the Mokoros and it was then that animals began appearing everywhere. It was almost 8:00 when Wildebeests and Zebras and Springboks and Warthogs graced us with their presence. Even two Cape Buffalo ran by us on the way back. So after the disappointment of the first afternoon walk, we had major success the next morning. We returned back to camp for a proper breakfast happy with what we’d seen, and amazed we could view it so up close in the wild on foot.

Wildebeests

Moyo prepared a delicious breakfast of bacon and eggs, which we ate as far away from the fire as possible, because the day was heating up. We sat around camp for a bit in the morning, many played cards (which had become a little bit too commonplace in my opinion) while some of us just lounged around, talked, read, wrote in journals or slept. I took a brief nap and woke up restless, not wanting to spend the day in the camp. So a group of us decided to get dirty and go “swimming” in the delta. We took a Mokoro over to a little area that we more suitable to swim in and splashed around enjoying the heat and the water. Mokoroing is actually much more difficult than it looks. And after a few false starts we finally discovered some helpful hints that allowed us to row straight and steady.

Climbing the Rain Tree

The water felt nice and the abundant water cooled off the sun’s blazes. We were instructed not to go anywhere without a guide, but Sarah, Jake, Alison and I decided that going a little out of the way wouldn’t do anyone harm. So we rowed our Mokoros over to an island opposite our camp and the swimming hole and came up on land to a magnificent “Rain Tree” that is present in almost every picture of a sunset. Jake and I climbed the tree and had indredible views of the Delta from about 20 feet up. We rested up in the tree, contemplating what would happen if one of us were to fall out of the tree and injure ourselves, seeing as there isn’t a hospital, let alone means to get to a hospital in less than a few hours. However, luckily we were careful and came away without injury. We walked around the idland a bit further to the most peaceful out of the way place I’ve probably ever been. No people within miles, no man made structures, nothing, just nature. I hadn’t had a feeling quite like this since the fall of 2006 when I spent 36 hours on a solo on Lighthouse Beach in Eleuthera, Bahamas. It is a feeling I miss and one I hope to have again soon.

On the sunset Mokoro cruise, watching some Hippos from a safe distance 

We returned back to camp in time for a sandwich before we embarked on a “Sunset Mokoro Cruise” We hopped in the Mokoros around 17:00 and were lead out to the main drag of the Delta where we ran into a huge group of Hippos. For obvious reasons we couldn’t get too close to the Hippos. Hippos kill more humans than any other animal. And in our desires to not become statstics, we stayed at a safe distance and watched the Hippos, their jaws stretching wide open above the water. We hid in the reeds and watched the sun fall and the birds and hippos play in front of us. Sarah, being the bug lover she is found solace in bugs, frogs and other small animals around us. Meanwhile Wes and I made fun of her and chatted to pass the time in the beautiful setting.

Sun begins to set as we head back to camp

We headed back just as the sun fell by the Rain Tree I’d come to love. The Polers rushed us back so that we would not be travelling around the delta after nightfall. Then it becomes much more difficult to spot Crocodiles, Snakes, Hippos and other potentially hazardous creatures. We got back to supper nearly being ready along with a blazing fire in the middle of camp.

Race against time to beat the setting sun back to camp

Moyo prepared Chicken Curry for us and it was delicious. The day helped me work up quite an appetite thanks to an afternoon of adventuring and swimming around the delta and an abbreviated lunch. We ate with the Polers and were told that they were going to teach us songs, dances and stories from their village outside of Maun. It was difficult to communicate with them, even though they spoke English, it was very different than American English with a thick accent. 

Sun sets for the final time of our stay in the delta

They sang songs and did dances and the polers were surprisingly enthusiastic about their songs.  It was enjoyable until we were asked to show some American culture. It is embarrassing to sing songs that represent America like “the Cotton Eyed Joe” or “Electric Slide.” I chose to play a minor role in these songs and dances, claiming ignorance. As we were singing and dancing, a member of the Peace Corps situated in Botswana stumbled into our camp, equipped with only a bottle of Delta water with iodine immunization tablets in it, a flask of Gin and a marijuana joint. The kid was about 3 years older than us and from Philly. He was very, very strange, but was starved for Americans and was excited to join us after he told me he hadn’t seen an American in 8 months. It was bizarre, but a memorable evening nonetheless. I ducked out early, embarrassed by our “American” presentation and excited for our final morning in the Delta.