Monday, January 30, 2012

The International Language of Sport

While the pictures paint the story of beautiful scenery and wonderful sites, the real beauty of this place has been the people. The people are incredibly nice, the weather is amazing the campus is beautiful the sites are breathtaking and I have made many good friends, both Americans traveling with me and Africans. I have been relying heavily on my interest in sport to help relate with many Africans, such as a man named Max from Ghana who I spent about an hour and a half talking to at a bar one night. While Max and I have very little in common and don't know any of the same people, we were able to forge a friendship based on our love for sports. He was obsessed with Kevin Garnett and Ray Allen, and could not believe I was from Boston. While many people see sports as an activity without much else, I urge you to look at the history of South Africa. SOuth Africa has seen sport be used for so much more than just a game. Sports are an international language that every sports fan can understand, people will do crazy things in the name of sports. 
Case-in-point: A symbol used in sport, recognized everywhere, by all ages

Just as SEC Football may be seen as overly obsessive, so are the South Africans for Football, Rugby and Cricket. Sport can unite a nation, a continent or even the world. South Africans will tell you that when they speak of the 2010 World Cup in South Africa. Every local who I have talked to said it was the greatest experience because people from every country in the world came to one place, and for a few weeks all of the racial or cultural tensions that existed just disappeared. People became so infatuated by the sport, everything was alright. The story of the South African Rugby team in the 1990's, made famous by the movie Invictus with Morgan Freedman and Matt Damon, illustrates further how the world of sports holds a special place in South African culture and history. I am proud to be a member of the world of sports and have a new found appreciation for all that sports are beyond, "just a game."

J&B Met, Long Street & Cape of Good Hope

The first weekend we had here in Cape Town allowed us to see what the culture is really about. While we can read in books or see in pictures what the culture is perceived to be about, the real culture comes through, as it does in America, on the weekends. When people have the time to do whatever they want to do, what do they do? I believe that is most telling about what people value. We woke up early Saturday because we had a full day ahead of us, it was a once a year opportunity we stumbled into for the J&B Met, a horserace and fashion event that is among the most popular summer events in Cape Town. We all were dressed for the occasion and a group of 10 of us, (6 girls, 4 boys) headed to Kenilworth to take place in the festivities. While we were halfway around the world, the activities we were doing were not so foreign to us. The men were dressed up, but clearly not their for the fashion as there were long lines for beer and liquor filled with men anxiously buying as many drinks as they could hold and bitting their fingernails nervously suspecting they might have just bet all of their money away. We had no problem joining in with this behavior, and promptly bought many drinks and placed many bets on horses. The girls were all enticed by the high fashion that was present at the track, including many lavish dresses, fancy hats and outfits that my friend Tripp aptly said "whats with all the lady gaga outfits." It was an incredibly fun time, as we all lost on our bets but had the opportunity to meet locals and other internationals from Europe and Australia, and be outside enjoying life the way the locals chose to spend their weekend. There were over 50,000 people in attendance, and we quickly understood this was South Africa's equivalent of the Kentucky Derby. After power naps to recharge from a long day of drinking and being in the sun, we set our sights on the night scene in Cape Town proper on the well-known Long Street.

Jarret, Bryson, Me and Tripp from left to right, at the J&B Met

Long Street features over 200 bars and clubs in the center of Cape Town, and is just a fifteen to twenty minute cab ride from UCT Campus. We arrived on Long Street and headed for Dubbliner's, a popular Irish pub. The street features balconies on almost every bar, reminiscent of Bourbon Street in the French Quarter of New Orleans. We enjoyed the indoor/outdoor setting of all of the bars and clubs we visited on Long Street and have become particularly fond of Windhoeck and Castle Lager, two of the more popular South African beers. The streets became crowded around 23:00 and before we knew it we were in the thick of Long Street mingling with Americans, Africans, Europeans and others. I even managed to run into a few Americans I knew from Bowdoin and from Concord, Massachusetts, as well as by coincidence meeting a recent Duke graduate who lives in Cape Town who my friend Liz Walker from Lawrenceville wanted to put me in touch with. Humphrey Bogart's line, "Of all the gin joints in the world..." was all I could think of when running into these people and by coincidence talking to them at a bar. As I have met many people and run into a surprising number of people in Cape Town. The network of friends I have is growing and with so much to do, it is easy to become close friends quickly. The city is not short on happiness, and there is a clear emphasis put on enjoyment.

Sunday, we had the privilege of going on a tour down the Coast headed East. We stopped in townships and met local children, saw numerous sights and Cape Town and headed all the way down to hike around the Cape of Good Hope, which is claimed by some to be the spot where the Indian and Atlantic Ocean meet. (However its technically a little further east). The sights here are unparalleled, it is one of the most Southern points of Africa and is the rare combination of Oceans and Mountains that is so picturesque.

Cape of Good Hope

By the time we returned from another day long adventure, hiking in the blazing hot sun. We barely had the energy to eat dinner and retire. It has been quite a week since we arrived in Cape Town, already having seen so much, learned so much and met so many people. A stark contrast from America for me, despite the indulgences a feeling of health in South Africa has been present. I have run almost daily up the hills on UCT Campus and worked out on the beautiful Rugby fields on campus. The weather and views give the motivation to be outside and active that New England Winters sometimes lack. I can't believe it has already been a week, I am so fortunate to be on this excursion and know how much so many have sacrificed to make this possible. While I learn the culture I am excited to begin classes at the school and learn more and more about this fascinating place while I'm here. Discovering difference and reconciling different perspectives has been a struggle through the history of mankind, South Africa knows that as well as anywhere, to be able to learn from the past and present here will be an invaluable experience as the world becomes smaller and smaller in the 21st century. 

Here We Go

The past week has been a combination of tedious orientation and incredible views, sights and experiences here in Cape Town. We all awoke Monday morning to a full day of orientation. Before we were set free to do what we will with our time in South Africa, there were a series of orientation lectures we needed to hear, regarding safety, culture, how to's and practical tips. We journeyed from Upper Liesbeek Road, where our apartments are to the University. UCT is situated on a hill that leads up to Devil's peak. Our orientations Monday included campus tours and tours of humanities and commerce buildings. While it was not the most enjoyable, Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday were used to setup bank accounts, cell phones, apartments and make sure we had all the tools we needed to be acclimated in South Africa. The image below, while beautiful, does not even begin to do justice to how gorgeous the campus is.

The picture of UCT upper-campus is taken from the center of the Rugby field. It was not by accident the Rugby field was placed in the center of campus, Rugby is UCT's best and most popular sport.

While our days were full of instruction and hand holding, at night, we were free to journey wherever we pleased. A group of boys who i've become friends with from The Citadel in South Carolina wasted no time in becoming acquainted with the bar and club scene around UCT campus and Cape Town. Pig and Swizzle is among the most popular bars for watching Football and Cricket right in Rondebosch. We became acclimated with many local South Africans at the bars and despite the fact that most UCT students are not back to school yet, a few UCT locals were there to introduce us to UCT. 

Thursday was the first day we were able to begin adventuring to destinations that interested us. We spent our morning going to a township on the outskirts of Cape Town. Township is the equivalent term of a ghetto in South Africa. We were surrounded by overwhelming poverty, generations of families stuck in a poverty trap. There was significant animosity among the locals about the South African government. While the South African government is often viewed as a beacon of freedom in the international media, there remains significant corruption within the government and there is belief that while the country is eighteen years removed from racial apartheid, there is still socioeconomic apartheid that cripples much of the population. South Africa has an incredibly polarized population from the super rich to the super poor, and little existence of a middle class. My studies at UCT will focus on the history of South Africa as well as the South African Government system pre- and post-apartheid. The experience we had in Langa, the township we visited, was eye opening to see a first hand example of where the system isn't working. 

Robben Island Entrance 

After a morning of playing with children and seeing what like in a township is like, we traveled to a more touristy and European area of Cape Town, the waterfront. We enjoyed a delicious lunch at the waterfront, and had time to tour around the shops and area in the beautiful setting. Here we saw the polar opposite of the poverty we experienced in the morning. Gucci, Louis Vutton, and many other famous designers have huge stores catering to the wealthy Europeans who frequent this area of the city. It was amazing to see the discrepancy in lifestyle in just a 15 minute drive. After our lunch we hopped aboard a Ferry to Robben Island. Robben Island was the former prison for political prisoners that is situation about 7km off of the coast of Cape Town. Robben Island is best known for being the place where Nelson Mandela was held for eighteen years of his twenty-seven years in prison after being arrested in 1962 and sentenced to life as a political prisoner. We learned about his history as a fighter for the Umkhonto we Sizwe, which is the armed wing of the African National Congress. Our tour guide was a former inmate who was a follower of Mandela and the rebellion of the African National Congress against apartheid. The bleak prison walls and cell where Mandela was held was another incredible reminder of all that Nelson Mandela and thousands and thousands of others were willing to sacrifice their lives for. The free South Africa I am experiencing today is far different than the South Africa of just twenty years ago, but as I saw in the morning, there is far more progress that the nation needs to address in terms of inequality.

Thursday was a day where we could do whatever we wished. I went with a few friends, including Laura Belair who attended high school with me, to a beautiful suburb called Camp's Bay to spend a day at the beach and rest from the orientations we had been subjected to over the previous days. Camp's Bay is one of the rare places in the world where oceans and mountains meet. Perhaps the most beautiful place I have seen in South Africa, or the world, thus far, Camp's Bay is an expensive posh town that features many bars, clubs and restaurants. 


The sun was incredibly hot, and the water is shockingly cold. A nice contrast that allows you to remain on the beach all day, although the water is so cold that it is almost unbearable to spend more than 3 or 4 minutes in at a time. We had a nice lunch and enjoyed some relaxation and sunlight. Camp's Bay is a place I'm sure we will see a lot of, especially when my Grandmother Sally, and brother and sister come to visit at the end of February. My Grandmother Sally is already known through word of mouth by many of my friends here as I have warned them that I have a grandmother who is impossible to give justice to through description. Many were shocked that my grandmother would be able/willing to make such a journey, to which I responded you clearly don't know my grandmother. I look forward to showing her around Cape Town, especially because despite her many filled passports has never stepped foot on the continent of Africa. To give you an idea of what Camp's Bay looks like, you can see in the panorama I took above theres no direction you can look and not have a view.

Monday, January 23, 2012

Arriving in the Future

The clock is telling me it is 15:46 on Monday, January 23rd, but my mind and body are having a hard time believing that. After 20 hours of travel, moving forward 7 time zones (unfortunately this doesn't mean I watched the Patriots game 7 hours early and then was able to place bets given that information.) and without any solid sleep, it seems like its Sunday night. The 83o Fahrenheit temperature makes me question whether or not this is what January looks like anywhere in the world.  For now I will have to suspend my intuition and trust the reality of Cape Town.
            Many American students traveling from the major hubs of New York, Chicago, DC and Atlanta finally left the airport at about 1400 hours after our bags arrived an hour after we did in Cape Town airport. As we drove from the airport to our apartments we passed many visibly impoverished townships as well as naturally beautiful natural landscapes. We arrived in the town of Rondebosch, which is a western suburb of Cape Town, which we will call home for the next several months. Located at the bottom of the University of Cape Town Campus, Rondebosch is a town inhabited by many UCT students.
I will be residing in Helena Flat 3. We were all surprised by how nice the flats here are, ours is spacious, simple and comfortable. Each student has their own bedroom and I share a common space, bathroom and kitchen with 2 other fellows, Jake and Peter. Jake goes to the College of William and Mary and Peter goes to the University of Minnesota. Our apartment also happens to have a balcony, which offers the ability for breezes to swoop through our flat and cool down the hot air. A group of us wandered onto Rondebosch’s main street to find some necessities and get a bite to eat. By the time our supper had concluded everyone was having trouble keeping their eyelids open, and I, who had only a week ago been freezing my ass off in Foxboro, Massachusetts had to find a way to watch the Patriots Ravens AFC Championship game.

 
Pretty good view, especially considering the circumstances

There was a great deal of adversity I had to overcome in order to be able to watch the Patriots game. First of all, I was incredibly tired and was ready to finally lay down in a bed and sleep, it had been about 36 hours since I’d last been able to sleep lying down. Secondly, it was already 10 pm local time in Africa, thousands and thousands of miles from any land where football actually means football. I ended up discovering a way I could buy some internet (literally, here you pay per MB of data used) and also bought NFL Game Pass, which allowed me to stream the game in HD nonetheless. Though it cost more than it usually would and took about an hour and a half to get setup, I was as happy as a clam lying in my flat watching the AFC Championship half way around the world, as if I were minutes from Foxboro.  Sure enough the Patriots punched their ticket to the Super Bowl as most expected, however, it was in a subpar game for Brady and with help from Billy Cundiff doing his best Ray Finckle impersonation, missing the game tying field goal with 11 seconds left. Unfortunately I did not have enough internet or energy to stay awake to witness the Giants reserving an invitation to Indianapolis to rematch the Patriots and Giants previous Super Bowl appearances. It will be quite a game in 2 weeks and I will be happy to stay up for the 2 or 3 am kickoff South African time. I drifted off to sleep with a smile on my face and a sigh of relief, having arrived safely halfway around the world destined for an incredible experience ahead of me, topped off with a Patriots Super Bowl in two weeks. All is well in the world.

Sunday, January 22, 2012

Above the Atlantic

             Currently soaring 37,000 ft above the Atlantic Ocean. Still have 11 hours left until South Africa. Several of my new classmates are onboard the same plane. While starting the journey on a 15 hour flight is difficult, it is small toll to pay for the opportunity we have ahead of us. We are slowly transitioning from a long Winter break at home to a once in a lifetime adventure that will push us out of our comfort zones. Many exotic experiences await, and the suspense is now overwhelming. However, for now the adventure consists of episodes of Seinfeld, Michael Lewis books, bad food and sleeping pills.


Saturday, January 21, 2012

Tuesday, January 3, 2012

19 Days Until Departure

Only 19 days remain until I leave JFK International Airport for a grueling 15 hour flight to Johannesburg, South Africa. I have no clue what my time in Cape Town will bring, but I am anxious for the experience. I have many loose ends to tie up before I depart and plenty of preparation left. I know that January 21st 2012 will be here before I know it and the adventure will be underway.  The mystery of not knowing what the future holds is what makes it so exciting, here's to finding out.
        -Hank